A client in Waterloo showed me her makeup before I redid it for her wedding. She’d followed a YouTube tutorial exactly—blended crease color, winged liner, the whole thing. When she opened her eyes, all of it disappeared into her eyelid fold.

This happens constantly. Most makeup tutorials assume visible lid space and a defined crease. If you have monolid or hooded eyes, those techniques don’t transfer. You end up frustrated, thinking you’re doing something wrong.

You’re not. The tutorials are wrong for your eye shape.

After doing makeup for hundreds of clients across Kitchener, Waterloo, Cambridge, and Guelph—many with Asian eye shapes—I’ve adapted standard techniques to actually work. Here’s what I’ve learned.

First: Identify Your Eye Shape

Asian eyes vary widely. The techniques that work depend on your specific shape.

Monolid Eyes

What it looks like: No visible crease when your eyes are open. The eyelid appears as one smooth surface from lash line to brow.

The makeup challenge: Eyeshadow and liner disappear when you open your eyes. Everything you apply gets hidden by the lid folding over itself.

What works: Applying color higher than you think you need to, checking with eyes open, and using techniques designed for your anatomy.

Hooded Eyes

What it looks like: You have a crease, but it’s hidden under skin that folds down from the brow bone. When your eyes are open, the crease disappears partially or completely.

The makeup challenge: Similar to monolids—shadow disappears into the fold. Wings get cut off. Liner transfers to the hood.

What works: Applying shadow above where your crease actually sits, using waterproof products, and designing your look for the open-eye view.

Double Eyelid (Almond Shape)

What it looks like: Visible crease when eyes are open. The lid has two distinct sections—the mobile lid below the crease and the area above it.

The makeup challenge: Fewer challenges than monolid or hooded. Standard tutorials work reasonably well.

What works: Traditional techniques translate, but you can still benefit from adjustments for Asian facial structure (flatter brow bone, different eye spacing).

Combination Shapes

Many people have characteristics of multiple types:

• Monolid with slight fold
• Hooded on one eye, less hooded on the other
• Double eyelid that becomes hooded when tired

Identify what you’re working with, then adapt techniques accordingly.

Eye Primer: Why It Matters More for Asian Eyes

I use primer on every client, but it’s especially critical for monolid and hooded eyes.

Why: Asian eyelids often have more oil production. The skin-on-skin contact from lid folding creates friction. Without primer, shadow creases within an hour. Liner smudges. Colors muddy together.

How to apply:

1. Apply a thin layer from lash line to brow bone
2. Extend slightly beyond where you’ll place shadow
3. Pat (don’t rub) to set
4. Wait 30 seconds before applying shadow

For hooded eyes specifically: Apply primer both on the mobile lid AND on the skin that folds over it. Both surfaces need grip.

A bride in Cambridge had struggled with creasing her whole life. During her trial, I showed her proper primer application. She was shocked her shadow lasted 12 hours at her wedding without touch-ups.

Eyeshadow Placement: The Key Difference

Here’s where most tutorials fail Asian eyes: they tell you to apply color “in the crease.” If your crease is hidden, that instruction is useless.

For Monolid Eyes

The technique:

1. Find your “fake crease”: Close your eye and feel where your eyeball curves back into the socket. That’s your reference point—about 1cm above your lash line for most people.

2. Apply transition shade here: This is where you’d normally place crease color. On monolids, it needs to be visible when eyes are open.

3. Check constantly: After every few strokes, open your eyes and look straight ahead in the mirror. Does the color show? If not, go higher.

4. Lid color goes below: Apply your main lid shade from lash line to your fake crease line.

5. Highlight strategically: Inner corner and center of mobile lid create dimension.

Shadow shapes that work:

• Gradient from dark outer corner to light inner corner
• Halo eye (dark inner and outer, light center)
• Vertical gradient (dark at lash line, lighter as you go up)

What doesn’t work:

• Cut crease (requires visible crease to cut)
• Traditional crease-focused looks
• Anything where the key color sits in the natural crease

For Hooded Eyes

The technique:

1. Apply with eyes open: This is the most important adjustment. Looking down in the mirror shows you a canvas that disappears when you look straight ahead.

2. Find your visible line: Look straight ahead. Where does your hood end and visible lid begin? That’s where your transition shade goes.

3. Blend above the fold: Your crease color needs to sit above where the skin folds, so it shows when eyes are open.

4. Keep mobile lid simple: Since most of your mobile lid is hidden, a wash of color or shimmer is enough. Save detailed work for visible areas.

5. Outer corner focus: Dark shadow in the outer V shows regardless of hooding.

The open-eye check: After every step, look straight ahead at the mirror (not down at your palette). What you see is what others see.

For Double Eyelid/Almond Eyes

Standard techniques work, but consider these adjustments:

• Crease placement may differ: Asian crease often sits lower than Western tutorial references
• Wing angle adjustment: Follow your natural eye shape rather than standard 45-degree angle
• Inner corner work: Asian eye spacing often benefits from inner corner highlight

Eyeliner: The Biggest Frustration Point

Liner causes the most problems for my Asian eye clients. Here’s how to make it work.

For Monolid Eyes

The wing problem: Standard wings don’t work because the skin folds over the liner when eyes open.

Solutions:

Option 1: Bat wing / broken wing Instead of a continuous wing, create a wing that accounts for the fold:

1. Draw your wing with eyes open, placing it where you want it visible
2. Close your eye and connect the wing to your lash line
3. When you open your eye, it won’t be a straight line—it will have a break where the fold occurs
4. This is intentional. It looks correct when eyes are open.

Option 2: Puppy liner Instead of winging up, angle your liner slightly downward at the outer corner. This:

• Follows the natural eye shape
• Doesn’t get lost in the fold
• Creates a softer, youthful look

Option 3: Tightlining only Apply liner on your upper waterline (between lashes and eye). This defines your eyes without visible liner that can smudge or disappear.

Application tips:

• Use gel or pencil liner (more control than liquid)
• Waterproof formula only
• Set with matching eyeshadow to prevent transfer
• Small strokes, not one continuous line

For Hooded Eyes

The problem: Liner transfers from the lid to the hood. Wings get cut off by the fold.

Solutions:

Apply with eyes open: Draw your liner looking straight ahead at the mirror. Place the wing where you want it to appear, not where it naturally connects.

Adjust wing placement: Your wing needs to start higher than the outer corner of your eye—above where the hood folds.

Thin is better: Thick liner closes down hooded eyes. Keep it thin along the lash line, thickening slightly at the outer corner.

Skip the waterline: Lining the lower waterline makes hooded eyes appear smaller. If you want lower lash definition, line just below the lashes instead.

Waterproof everything: Hooded lids create constant contact between skin surfaces. Regular liner will transfer within an hour.

A Guelph client came to me for her engagement photos convinced she “couldn’t wear eyeliner.” She’d tried for years and it always smudged. I showed her the open-eye application technique with waterproof gel liner, and she finally understood why nothing had worked before.

For All Asian Eye Shapes

Mistakes I see constantly:

• Wings too thick: Makes eyes look smaller
• Black liner all around: Closes down the eye
• Matching liner to eyeshadow exactly: Creates muddy look; liner should be darker
• Applying with eyes closed: Results in liner that doesn’t work when eyes open

Lashes: Why They Matter More for Asian Eyes

Asian lashes tend to be:

• Straighter (less natural curl)
• Pointing downward
• Shorter in length
• Fewer in number

This means lashes need more attention to open up the eyes.

Curling is Essential

If you skip curling, mascara weighs straight lashes down further. Always curl before mascara.

Technique:

1. Heat your curler slightly (hold against your hand for 10 seconds) or use a heated lash curler
2. Clamp at the base of lashes
3. Hold for 10 seconds
4. Move curler to middle of lashes, clamp again
5. Move to tips, clamp once more
6. Three-point curling holds better than single clamp

Mascara Selection

What works:

• Waterproof formulas (hold the curl better)
• Tubing mascaras (don’t smudge on hooded lids)
• Fiber mascaras (add length)

What doesn’t:

• Heavy, volumizing formulas (weigh lashes down)
• Non-waterproof on oily lids

False Lashes

For special occasions, false lashes dramatically open Asian eyes.

Best styles for monolid/hooded eyes:

• Individual clusters at outer corners
• Half lashes (outer corner only)
• Natural-looking strips with varied length
• Lashes with clear bands (less visible on smaller lid space)

Avoid:

• Super dramatic lashes that overwhelm the eye
• Lashes longer than your lid space can handle
• Heavy bands that weigh the lid down

A Kitchener bride wanted dramatic lashes for her wedding but had never worn them. During her trial, we tested three styles before finding the right balance—visible drama without overwhelming her monolids.

Brows: Framing Asian Eyes

Brows frame everything. For Asian eyes, brow shape affects how open and lifted the eye area appears.

For Monolid Eyes

Best brow shape:

• Soft arch (not too angular)
• Medium thickness
• Defined tail
• Space between brow and lid for shadow placement

Why: A rounded arch opens the eye area. Too angular looks harsh against the smooth lid surface.

For Hooded Eyes

Best brow shape:

• Higher arch to create lift
• Clean, defined shape
• Slightly thinner than natural (heavy brows compete with the hood)
• Highlighted brow bone to open the area

Why: A lifted arch counteracts the heaviness of the hood.

Brow Products for Asian Hair

Asian brow hair is often:

• Coarser in texture
• Darker in color
• Growing in one direction

What works:

• Pomade or pencil for precise strokes
• Brow gel to set hairs in place
• Going one shade lighter than your hair color for softness

What doesn’t:

• Powder alone (doesn’t grip coarse hair)
• Very dark colors (can look harsh)

Bridal Makeup for Asian Eyes

Wedding makeup requires all these techniques to be flawless AND last 12+ hours.

The Trial is Critical

A trial for Asian eye makeup needs to:

1. Test longevity: Wear the trial makeup for several hours to see if it lasts
2. Check in photos: Take photos in flash and natural light
3. Adjust technique: Work out liner style, shadow placement, lash choice
4. Match your vision: Bring reference photos and communicate clearly

Wedding Day Products

For Asian eyes on wedding day, I use:

• Eye primer: Always, on entire eye area
• Waterproof everything: Liner, mascara, and setting spray
• Individual lashes: More natural than strips, customizable
• Long-wear shadow: Cream-to-powder or powder with primer
• Setting spray: Multiple layers throughout

Common Wedding Day Issues

Crying during ceremony: Waterproof products plus touch-up kit with Q-tips and concealer

Oily lids by evening: Blotting papers for lids (yes, specifically for lids), translucent powder

Liner transfer: Set liner with matching shadow powder, use waterproof formula

Professional Makeup vs. DIY

When to Hire a Makeup Artist

Consider professional makeup for:

• Weddings: You want it perfect and lasting
• Professional photos: Makeup needs to photograph well
• When you want to learn: Book a lesson to understand your eye shape
• High-stakes events: Anything you’ll be photographed at extensively

Finding an Artist Who Understands Asian Eyes

Not all makeup artists have experience with Asian eye shapes. Ask:

• Do you have photos of work on monolid/hooded eyes?
• What techniques do you use for Asian eye shapes?
• Have you worked with clients who have my eye type?

A bad match means an artist who tries to make your eyes look “more Western” rather than enhancing their natural beauty.

DIY Tips

If you’re doing your own makeup:

Invest in tools:

• Good brushes (fluffy blending brush, precise crease brush, liner brush)
• Lighted mirror at eye level
• Magnifying mirror for detail work

Practice the techniques:

• Try looks before the event
• Take photos to see how it translates
• Time yourself to know how long you need

Adjust tutorials:

• Watch tutorials specifically for your eye shape
• Pause and adapt placement for your anatomy
• Don’t follow crease placement for eyes that don’t have visible creases

Mobile Makeup Services in Waterloo Region

I offer makeup services throughout Kitchener, Waterloo, Cambridge, and Guelph, specializing in clients with diverse eye shapes including monolid, hooded, and Asian eye types.

What I offer:

• Bridal makeup: Wedding day and trial, designed for your specific eye shape
• Event makeup: Any special occasion
• Makeup lessons: Learn techniques that work for YOUR eyes
• Photoshoot makeup: For engagements, headshots, professional photos

Why mobile service helps: I bring professional lighting to your location—important because bathroom lighting at home or standard room lighting makes it harder to do precise eye work.

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Quick Reference by Eye Shape

Monolid Eyes

Element	Technique
Shadow	Apply above natural crease, check with eyes open
Liner	Bat wing or puppy liner, waterproof formula
Lashes	Curl first, individual clusters at outer corner
Brows	Soft arch, medium thickness

Hooded Eyes

Element	Technique
Shadow	Apply above the fold, where visible when eyes open
Liner	Apply with eyes open, thin line, waterproof
Lashes	Half lashes or outer clusters
Brows	Higher arch for lift, clean shape

Double Eyelid/Almond

Element	Technique
Shadow	Standard techniques work, adjust crease placement
Liner	Follow natural eye angle for wing
Lashes	Standard styles work well
Brows	Natural arch, follow existing shape

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Frequently Asked Questions About Asian Eye Makeup

Why does my eyeshadow disappear when I open my eyes?

If you have monolid or hooded eyes, shadow placed in your natural crease gets hidden when the lid folds over. The solution is applying color higher—where it will actually be visible when your eyes are open. Apply shadow, then check in the mirror looking straight ahead (not down). If you can’t see the color, go higher.

What eyeliner technique works for monolid eyes?

Traditional winged liner doesn’t work well because the wing disappears into the fold. Try the “bat wing” technique (drawing the wing with eyes open so it accounts for the fold), puppy liner (angling down instead of up), or tightlining only (liner on the waterline between lashes). Waterproof gel or pencil formulas work better than liquid.

How do I stop my eyeliner from smudging on hooded eyes?

Hooded eyes smudge because skin surfaces touch constantly. Solutions: use waterproof formula only, set your liner with matching eyeshadow powder, apply with eyes open (so liner is placed where it won’t transfer), and keep the line thin. Some clients find gel liner stays better than liquid or pencil.

Should I curl my lashes before or after mascara?

Always curl before mascara. Asian lashes are typically straighter and point downward—curling lifts them to open the eye. Curling after mascara can break lashes and doesn’t hold as well. For best results, use a heated curler or warm your regular curler slightly, and curl at three points (base, middle, tips).

What eyeshadow colors work best for Asian eyes?

Color choice depends more on your skin tone and occasion than eye shape. For everyday: warm browns, soft taupes, and champagne shimmers work universally. For drama: burgundy, navy, and plum add depth without looking harsh. Avoid matte black on the lid (can look flat) unless blended carefully. The key is placement, not color.

How do I make my eyes look bigger with makeup?

For Asian eyes specifically: curl lashes thoroughly, apply lighter shadow on the center of the lid, highlight the inner corner, keep liner thin (thick liner closes down the eye), avoid lining the lower waterline, and focus mascara or false lashes on the outer corners. The goal is opening up, not closing down.

Can I get a cut crease look on monolid eyes?

Traditional cut crease (with a sharp line at the crease) doesn’t translate to monolids because there’s no visible crease to cut. However, you can create a similar effect by building color in a gradient—darker at the lash line, transitioning to lighter above—and using tape to create a sharp line at your desired “crease” location. It’s a modified technique, not the standard tutorial approach.

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Mobile makeup services throughout Waterloo Region

Serving: Kitchener | Waterloo | Cambridge | Guelph | Elmira | Baden | 50km radius

Contact: (226) 210-4099

Book Online: Schedule Your Makeup Appointment